Saturday, 4 November 2023

Erste Bank Open -Tennis Tourist Edition

Some of you may recall back in February of this year I decided to be a Tennis Tourist for the first time in absolutely ages, and journeyed to the Dutch city of Rotterdam to watch the ATP 500 event.

Well it gave me the bug to have a go at this Tennis Tourist malarkey again. This time I quite fancied having a look at Vienna as it has always seemed a place that is quite fascinating in TV programmes. As the Erste Bank Open was taking place in Vienna and there was a pretty decent field for ATP 500 event, I thought why not combine the tennis and the tourist bit.

There was one prudent thing I think I learnt from my experiences from Rotterdam.  That was watching tennis live for 4 days on the trot is actually quite exhausting and you need a lot of stamina.  I therefore set out my week in Vienna, Monday to Friday and decided to book tickets on the Tuesday and Thursday of the event.

Tickets were pretty easy to obtain through the Erste Bank Open website and they had the facility to order the tickets on an English website.  One of the fascinating things about the Erste Bank Open in comparison to many tournaments nowadays, is the fact that you are paying for a ticket for an entire day, not just a day or a night session.  Consequently on the Tuesday I invested 88 Euros for a seat two rows from the side of the court, and 67 Euros for a ticket for a ticket towards the side of the court on a higher level on Thursday (more to come about that later).  So anyone attending Centre Court would be guaranteed at least 4 matches the first 5 days of the main tournament.  There was also a second court in a separate "Halle" which I understand you could pay 10 Euros to watch a few singles matches, but primarily doubles.


How do you get to Vienna?

For many there is only one realistic option to get to Vienna and that is to fly.  I paid roughly £230 return to get to Vienna from the UK, with the infamous Ryan Air, which on my return journey turned out to be Lauda Air, but lets not go into that story right now.  You can of course find cheaper flights on websites (Wiz Air seemed to one popular carrier), however, when you book all the extras, cabin baggage, check in luggage, booking your seat, going to the toilet (joking but it wouldn't surprise me one day), the price of your flight starts to triple.  I think all I will say it requires some serious research.  

There are of course other ways to get to get to Austria, by road or rail as examples.  I was reliably informed by a driver to taking me to a day trip I was going on, that you can apparently drive from Vienna to Prague directly in just over 3 hours.

Accommodation

It may not surprise people to know that Vienna, being a prominent capital city of Europe, has a multitude of accommodation options to suit the needs and budget of every type of traveller.  I stayed in the Ibis City Wien situated near Pilgrimgasse on the Vienna U Bahn network and approximately 5 mins metro ride from Karlsplatz and Stephansplatz stations in the very centre of Vienna, and prominent stations in the U-Bahn network as well, which more or less takes you to anywhere in Vienna.  If you can find accommodation near these areas, it would be highly recommended.  Ibis City Wien is towards the budget end of hotels, but it served it's purpose perfectly.


Travelling Around Vienna

I must confess I did not take full advantage of Vienna's extensive transport network, including metro, bus and tram, basically because travelling by metro served its purpose in getting me to where I wanted to be within a matter of 10-20 minutes tops.  From what I could gather however, the metro service was very reliable., if quite busy at times. In terms of costs, people may wish to invest in getting a Vienna City Card which gives a 24, 48 and 72 hour option to pay for transport on entire network, with no additional costs.  There was an extra which you could add to get a return airport transfer using the CAT train, which takes roughly 16 minutes to get into the city.  I invested in a 72 hour card including airport transfer, for 51 Euros.  I also got a discount on several tourist attractions using the City Card as well.  It is worth mentioning as well you got free travel on the Vienna network using your tennis ticket, for up to two hours before and after the event.  


Vienna - Is there more to it that just watching Tennis?

The answer to this question is yes, 100 percent, with absolute bells on.  In fact I would probably argue if you spent two weeks in Vienna, you would struggle to fit in all that is available to see in Vienna and the surrounding area.  Vienna also serves as a gateway to visiting other parts of Austria and other cities in Europe.  I myself visited a village called Hallstatt, in the Austrian Alps, which has stunning views and is one of the oldest and dare I say most beautiful places I have visited.




As a taster of some of the Vienna options I will speak of some of the ones I visited.

Time Travel Austria is an interactive experience that tells you about the history of Austria it may not surprise you in a Time Travel context, and it really is quite fascinating and worth and hour of your time to understand Austria's history.  It is a 5D experience (and if you don't understand what that means, you will do by the end of the experience), and includes AI as well.  You don't have to worry about understanding what's going on if you don't speak German.  You literally place an audio guide to your ears and the rest is done for you be it in English, French, Italian or whatever so language you require. Well worth a visit I would say.

Schönbrunn Palace is Vienna's most popular tourist attraction, and a Baroque Style palace which was home to the Habsburg monarchy for over 300 years. If you do a tour within the palace, you get to see many of the stunningly preserved rooms within the palace.  You have audio guide to explain the history of each room as well. It terms of the palace's history, you do get that feeling of going back in time and understanding the lives of the Habsburg monarchy. As well as the palace itself, you can also visit the beautiful gardens, and Schönbrunn Zoo (Tiergarten Schönbrunn).  The zoo is apparently the oldest existing zoo in the world dating back to 1752 and is well worth a visit if you have a morning/afternoon to spare.  I would just like to say I well and truly fell in love with a baby orangutan, and I defy anyone else not to either.





The Spanish Riding School or Spanische Hofreitchule, is a worldwide renowned riding school.  The school trains Lipizzaner horses in the art of dressage.  The public has opportunities to attend shows, do tours of the school and watch the horses being trained. I spent the morning watching the horses being trained.  You receive commentary about the history of the school, how the horses are trained, when they begin training etc.  As result of limited time, I only had the opportunity to watch the horses train, but it was fascinating the almost military precision with which the horses are trained and what magnificent animals they actually are.

Prater Wien is a large amusement park, arguably most famous for a giant ferris wheel (Wiener Risenrad) which dates back to 1897.  I must confess that I went to Prater on what could only be described as a miserable rainy day in Vienna, however, if you go in the summer, I could imagine this place to be absolutely heaving.  The wheel itself gives views of the city of Vienna, but I was kind of grateful for a German speaking man who in classic international sign language, explained that the Ferris wheel actually has opening windows, so it is possible to take photos that don't look like you are taking photos through a window with rain pelting down against it.






Anyway as I said, this is just a taster of Vienna and barely scratches the surface if I am honest.  


And so to the tennis - Was it worth it?

The Erste Bank Open was apparently celebrating it's 49th edition this year, It is an ATP 500 men's event and every year seems to have a pretty phenomenal field competing for the trophy, and this year was no exception with about 12 of the world's top 20 competing. Not really surprising with the end of season approaching and the scramble for points to reach the end of year finals.

My experience of the Erste Bank Open as a tennis tourist is an interesting one, because there were bits of that were really, really good. Others bits were possibly not so good but when I reflect on some things is there possibly a simple explanation for this.

This kind of started before I had even ventured to Vienna.  As I said previously I had purchased my tickets for the event via the English version of the website, as I'll be honest, I have never had the opportunity to learn German properly, and the extent my knowledge of the language relates to seriously random words such as spargel (asparagus in English - long story) and apfel strudel (I like good desserts).  On receipt of my booking confirmation in my email inbox, I found that all information including the ticket itself was in actual German.  Now don't get me wrong, there are bits of a ticket you can work out such as date, time etc, however, but when there's are large paragraphs, you need to try and use Google Translate for fear you may miss some crucial information and you are at risk of breaking rules and regulations you didn't even know existed.

The tournament venue is the Wiener Stadthalle which is about a 15-20 mins metro ride from the centre of Vienna, on line U6 to Burgasse, so your journey is pretty smooth to the venue and as I mentioned previously you can take advantage of your ticket giving free travel for up to two hours before and after the end of the event, which is an excellent initiative and should be employed more at any sporting events worldwide to be honest.

Once in the Halle D, where the Centre Court is situated, the actual area surrounding the entrance to the Centre Court, is what I would describe as quite claustrophobic, with the amount of fans who are attending the tournament. The main areas are absolutely chock-o-block with Sponsor stalls and if you haven't had an opportunity to invest in tennis outfits or tennis equipment for a while, there are probably enough stalls to set you up for the next two years.  The foyer did have an interview/interactive area where fans did have the opportunity to interact with famous players.  The Tuesday early afternoon when I arrived, Boris Becker was actually being interviewed, which I found a bit bizarre as his new charge Holger Rune was due to play in Basel that evening.  Fair play though he apparently was in Basel by the evening.

Catering facilities were what I would describe as limited within Halle D, although I don't know whether this was due to my limited understanding of what was actually available.  The Erste Bank Open being an all day event, meant in realty you are probably looking at 2 "decent" meals to keep you going for an entire day.  In my ventures round the Halle, I found one stall called Fat Monk, which appeared to provide a decent, substantial meal with a choice of 3 dishes.  Other stalls as far as I could see were mainly serving snacks as opposed to substantial meals for the most part.  So my diet for two days mainly consisted of snacks, drinks and not much else.  Interestingly representatives of a world renowned food delivery service (they wore orange t-shirts) were actually delivering food and drinks to fans in their seats in the arena.  No idea how they did this and wouldn't have the facility to do either, but as an idea it intrigued me.  Incidentally, I think this the first ever major venue  I have attended where Coca-Cola or Pepsi were not available to customers.  Red Bull all the way folks 

So to Erste Bank Open's biggest selling point the actual tennis.  The arena is a wonderful venue to witness great tennis.  You have a pretty much great views from wherever you are sitting in the arena.  The only issue I had was with the seat I had on the Thursday, and I mean literally the seat.  I paid 67 Euros for the seat and when I got to the seat I realised why.  The seat I can only describe as a solid sheet of metal with approximately 2 mm cushioning for your back, and the actual seat pretty much just the same.  Imagine sitting on it for 11 hours.  In fact there was a father and son who felt more comfortable sitting on the stairs by the seats for most of the day, that's how bad they were.  

The atmosphere you couldn't fault at all.  The Austrians clearly love their tennis and the vast majority stayed for the entire day for the tennis which was great to see, something which is quite rare amongst the tennis viewing public nowadays. The players seem to love the atmosphere as well and appreciated the support of the fans.  In fact it was electric at times, particularly during the match between the Austrian favourite Thiem and Tsitsipas.  There is also music to get you going as well, and big screen entertainment including Kiss Cam, and people attempting to replicate emojis.

The tennis itself was of decent quality for the most part.  No player seemed to be struggling with the quality of the court or any other issues.  The matches I saw were highly competitive for the most part, which added more to the enjoyment of the day, but if you are a fan invested in a player, it can be exhausting.  Stef I'm blaming you for that 😀

So my conclusions of the Erste Bank Open, well I enjoyed my time at the tournament an awful lot in terms of the actual tennis, which is essentially what I came to Vienna for.  I do wonder if I missed out on the general fan experience though and whether I needed to do more research, particularly on the English version of the Erste Bank Open website.  There is also a question of what expectations should you expect when travelling to a country where English, German or any other language is not the native language of that country.  Does the Erste Bank Open actually have a lot of visitors from outside of Austria?  Is it necessary for the tournament to invest in providing more information for fans in different languages, particularly in the actual venue for example.  I think the biggest lesson, I have learnt as a tennis tourist this time is to do proper research before travelling to a country where I don't speak or understand the native language.

Would I attend the Erste Bank Open again?  Yes, I definitely would, but armed with good information in advance.


















Friday, 24 February 2023

Tennis Tourist Addition - Rotterdam ABN AMRO Tournament

  Tennis Tourist Addition - Rotterdam ABN AMRO Tournament


At the beginning of the year, I learnt that I had far too many annual leave days left to take before the end of March, so I figured I'd better use them rather than lose them.  I hadn't been a tennis tourist for several years, due to general issues like life and pandemics getting in the way, so I thought why not take a plunge and go to a tennis tournament abroad.  As some of my favourite players were playing in Rotterdam, and it doesn't take 24 hours to get there from the UK, I thought why not make a trip to the ABN AMRO Open tennis tournament.

I therefore went on the tournament website at the beginning of the year and managed to get tickets for all quarter final, semi final sessions and the final itself.  As a side note I bought a ticket for the evening session for the Thursday at the beginning of the tournament, but I'll explain more about that later.

Overall the ticket outlay for all these sessions (6 in total) worked out to be just over £300 (slightly more in Euros), which I found to be quite reasonable for an ATP 500 tournament, and several top ten stars taking part. There was also an opportunity to buy like an overall pass for all sessions as well, but I felt that would leave me with the tennis fan equivalent of burnout.

Following the purchase of tickets I was asked to sign up to an app called Close, that stored all my purchased tickets, and also served as a platform to keep me up to date with everything I needed to know about the tournament.  To be armed with such information before a tournament, particularly in a country or city you're not overly familiar with, is such a godsend before you even get there.  Other events throughout the world would do very well to follow Rotterdam, in preparing fans like this.  


How to get to Rotterdam

Coming from the UK, I basically had 2 options to get to Rotterdam.  You can fly to Rotterdam The Hague airport from London City airport.  Both airports are what the British would describe as tin shed airports, and you would likely be flying in tin shed planes as well, therefore flights sell out and prices spiral very quickly.  There is the option of course to fly to Amsterdam Schiphol which is only just over 20 mins on the train from Rotterdam.

I however chose the option to travel by Eurostar from London St Pancras International to Rotterdam Centraal station directly.  It took 3 1/2 hours to get there and the moment I reached Rotterdam I was able to get off the train and head straight to my hotel.  No passport control to go through, because that already happened at London St Pancras International.  It was very much a stress free journey to be honest, except for having to wait in the departure lounge with what seemed like hundreds of parents with kids, heading for Disneyland.  Small inconveniences though.  


Staying in Rotterdam

Rotterdam has a multitude of options for all kinds of budgets.  It would be no understatement to say I am at the lower end of the budget scale when it comes to accommodation, but I like certain comforts as well.  I chose to stay at the City Hub Rotterdam.  It's kind of a cross between a low budget hotel and high end hostel.  You have what I would describe like a submarine cabin (it's better than you think) all to yourself, and access the cleanest bathroom and toilet facilities I think I've ever seen.   Beds were ridiculously comfy and were good to come back to following a long day watching tennis.  The hotel is literally 10 mins walk (5 mins by tram) from Rotterdam Centraal station as well.


Rotterdam - Should I just go for the tennis?

On the contrary, Rotterdam has a whole lot to offer the tourist other than a major ATP 500 event.  Rotterdam has an excellent transport system which seems to get to you to anywhere you want to go by tram, bus, metro and train in minutes, rather than hours.  Not forgetting that Rotterdam is Europe's largest port.  I'm no architect, but I would also think that Rotterdam would be an architect's dream. The amount of bizarre and wonderful looking buildings are really quite impressive.

I'm sure there are hundreds of countries in the world where you can travel by metro from one major city and be in another major city in just over 30 mins, but I wasn't expecting that whilst travelling to Rotterdam. Den Haag (The Hague), is literally just over 30 mins from Rotterdam on the metro and even better is on the exact same metro line you need to travel to the tennis.  So I spent the morning in Den Haag one day and I was watching doubles by 2pm.

So what can one do other than watch tennis in Rotterdam? There is actually quite a lot.  I managed to fit in a fair few things in the space of  five days.  One of the first things I did was take a little boat ride along the river Maas, just to see the enormity of Europe's largest port.  Now I won't lie, this boat ride will probably mainly be more attractive to architectural and shipping enthusiasts, but at the same time it does give you some education about the history, scale, and workings of the port as well as some locational points of reference in the city.





In the Blaak area of the city lies two impressive architectural masterpieces.  One is the Cubed Houses, and there is no mistaking that these are cubed houses. Incidentally, people do reside in these houses. The other is the Markthal, a rather impressive looking building housing a rather impressive food market, featuring stalls selling food from all corners of the globe and a large Asian food supermarket as well.  




On the final day of my trip I also visited Remastered, an experience and a trip quite frankly where famous Dutch artists are reimagined in a digital format. It really is a fascinating and unnerving experience at the same time.  I won't show any pictures here because it's something you have to experience first hand really in my opinion.

I barely touched the surface of what is available to see in Rotterdam, but it is important to stress there are other avenues to explore other than a tennis tournament.


So to the tennis - Was it worth going?

The ABN AMRO Open ATP 500 event was actually celebrating it's 50th birthday this year, and you were regularly reminded about the fact.  From a personal perspective it was nice to have something older than me in terms of its existence.  Anyway, in the cut throat world of ATP tournaments, to have existed for 50 years and not be a Slam or Masters 1000 event, is really quite impressive in the scheme of things, and you have to assume this Rotterdam tournament is doing an awful lot right.

The history of this tournament tells an interesting story, particularly from a geographical perspective.  In the 70's and 80's and early 90's there were several American winners of the tournament including Arthur Ashe, Jimmy Connors and Brad Gilbert.  What I didn't know apparently Connors shared the tournament with Lendl in 1984 because there was a bomb scare, although I would imagine Lendl would have been somewhat pissed off because he was leading 6-0 and 1-0 with a break. As we've moved into the 21st century the Rotterdam ATP 500 appears to have become essentially a "European Player" tournament.  The introduction of the Latin American Golden Swing and tournaments in USA such as Dallas and Delray Beach, mean many players, such as those outside of Europe and those players that could considered clay court specialists, now have so many other options. A cold week in the middle of Rotterdam, on a somewhat difficult surface, is now not so appealing. So there were only a few non Europeans that chose to infiltrate the singles draw at Rotterdam this year. One Canadian, one Australian, one American and a Korean.

So is it worth attending the Rotterdam tournament?  Well that's an interesting question. In terms of a fan experience I found it to be excellent for the most part.  Here are some of the reasons why.

1) It's a great atmosphere.  The Dutch clearly love their tennis and have been visiting this tournament for 50 odd years.

2) I didn't have to travel to middle of a forest, or a suburb of a city that takes 2 hours to get to.  The venue Rotterdam Ahoy is situated in Zuid Plein which is literally 12 minutes by metro to Rotterdam Centraal station. 

3) The staff in the complex spoke perfect English (having said that I don't think I have encountered a Dutch person who doesn't speak English to be honest), and were delightful, friendly, and helpful when you needed to speak to them.

4) There was a variety of food outlets to chose from throughout the complex.  Now don't get me wrong, it was ridiculously expensive, but I will forgive the tournament based on nowadays any tournament venue you seem to have to spend about the same amount on food as you've paid on the ticket you purchased.  I will forgive Rotterdam also, because their chips are absolutely fabulous.  On recommendation I tried Kroket in Bread, an interesting but very tasteful experience as well.

5) As well as the main Ahoy arena, there are two other match courts and practice courts which fans can gain easy access to, to see their favourite players close up.

6) If you are into shopping and an interactive experience, you are well and truly catered for in the Sports Plaza, with shops, food trucks and tennis clinics and interactive games.  The only thing I thought was lacking was a proper ABN AMRO Open souvenir store.  I only learnt after the final that there were some souvenirs in a shop called Quick.  I was offered a drinks bottles used by some of the players during the tournament.  The only thing identifying them was a label with the players name, but it just felt a bit weird and like it required a certificate of authenticity.  On the plus side I did get a souvenir travel bag however for only 5 Euros, which was a bonus.

7) I wasn't aware until I attended this tournament that the ABN AMRO Open is one of the first tournaments outside of Grand Slams, to integrate wheelchair events, both male and female, into their tournament programme.  To have the opportunity to see the likes of Alfie Hewitt and Gordon Reid, arguably one of the most successful doubles teams to have ever played wheelchair tennis, was a pure joy.  This tournament is clearly an innovator which keeps it going strong.






So the tennis itself.  Sometimes it's very hard to be objective when you are a fan of a player and not necessarily a great fan of another player.  I'm a big fan of Stefanos Tsitsipas and the way he generally plays tennis.  He unfortunately encountered a very on form Jannik Sinner in the 2nd round of the tournament, the very first match I saw.  The match turned out to be a bit of a damp squib to be honest.  Of course we later learnt a shoulder injury may not have helped Tsitsipas's cause, but the quality of the court surface did seem to affect an awful lot of players, in terms of it being quite slow and having a low bounce.

As an example, Tsitsipas normally shanks shots at least twice a match.  This is not uncommon for him and if there was a ranking for quantity of shanks, he'd probably be surpassing the equivalent of Djokovic's 377 weeks at no.1, by the end of his career.  Tsitsipas was not the only culprit during the shankathon during this tournament.  They were coming from all over the shop.  Those players that normally play with a lot of spin and guile, were struggling with this court constantly.  This could also be said for the wheelchair doubles guys as well.  They were often picking balls up at the bottom of their wheels and often looked like they were attempting a moon ball or lob virtually every point.

The two players that hit what I would describe as a "flatter" ball (Sinner and Medvedev) ended up being in the final, and arguably played the best match of the tournament as well.  Seeing Medvedev up close is kind of fascinating.  He firstly receives serve in another postcode.  His general position and centre of gravity however, is often quite low to the court, because by the time a serve reaches his racket, he's often finds himself more or less at ground level anyway.  This court basically suits him to an absolute tee, and fair play to him, he was the deserved winner of the tournament.

So to conclude, if you are looking for the overall experience of an ATP 500 event, you could do far worse than the ABN AMRO Open.  The fan experience is highly enjoyable.  My only question mark would be the quality of the tennis courts moving forward.  I saw a comment from someone on Twitter that some of the European Indoor Courts, just seem to get slower and slower, suiting the a select few as opposed to the majority.  My only concern is that if some players start to feel they don't feel competitive on certain courts, they will chose to move to other tournaments or not play at all.  That will be a shame for Rotterdam, because as a general tennis fan experience, it's a really good one.